The silent motor
The most common wheel problem in this game is not a setting. Force feedback is sent to whichever device the game registers first, and a pedal set on its own USB port, a shifter, or a controller left connected can take that slot. The wheel still steers perfectly, and the motor does nothing.
Everything about that failure looks like a broken force feedback setting, which is why it is searched for as one. The fix is an ordering fix: disconnect everything else, connect the wheelbase directly rather than through a hub, and confirm the steering input responds before adding anything back.
Partial is not a footnote
The publisher’s device table marks some models as partially supported, and defines the term itself: the motor may work while the button mappings are absent. Seventeen models carry a note that further support is coming.
That distinction is the single most useful thing in the table and it is the first thing every summary of it drops. A brand list that says “supported” where the real answer is “the wheel works and none of the buttons do” is worse than no list.
One change at a time
The advice that survives contact with a wheel is boring and it is the publisher’s own: start at the defaults, in the game and in the wheel’s software, and change one control at a time. Force feedback controls interact — raising the overall scale can push forces past what the hardware can deliver, at which point everything above that ceiling feels identical and detail disappears from exactly the corners you were trying to feel.
Rotation belongs to the driver, not the game
Set the degrees of rotation in your wheel’s own driver and leave the in-game steering sensitivity alone unless the hardware gives you no rotation control at all. Changing both is the most reliable way to end up with steering that behaves differently in every car, and it is the mistake the publisher singles out.
